How To Craft Magic Jewelry?

Due to falling asleep in my chair last night after work, I'm newly in need of some replacement lewelry. I've never tried to craft magic jewelry before so I don't fully understand how this works. I tried a few things so far and it seems to me that if I use a regular tinker kit and regular material I'll end up with non-magic jewelry and it's when you use runic kits and special ingots that you start getting more and better properties. That part's easy enough to understand but I don't see any option in the Tinkering menu to choose crafting with the special gems like Blue Diamonds, Turquoise, and so forth. That's something I would like to do + I can't figure it out, so any information on this would be greatly appreciated!